TLDR: Visiting Amaravati, Cittaviveka, and Anukampa taught me valuable lessons about mindfulness and community life. Here’s how these monasteries shaped my understanding of Buddhism.
My journey into Theravada Buddhism began when I first encountered Luang Por Sumedho and attended his Dhamma talk. Though new to the teachings, certain concepts took root in my mind and strengthened my faith in the Dhamma path. This inspired me to plan a visit to the Amaravati Buddhist Monastery in southeastern England to pay respect to the teacher and observe how Buddhists live in non-Buddhist countries.
While Buddhist monasteries are relatively rare in the West, I visited three: Cittaviveka Buddhist Monastery, southwest of London, Amaravati, and the Anukampa Bhikkhuni Project in Oxford.
Buddhist monasteries in the West
The Thai Forest Tradition of Theravada Buddhism is relatively new to the West.
Knowing that Luang Por Sumedho offers Dhamma reflections and talks on moon days (New Moon, Half Moon, and Full Moon), I arranged my visit to Amaravati to coincide with the Full Moon day. I visited Cittaviveka first, followed by Anukampa before departing.
Booking timeline and expectations
Western Buddhist monasteries observe winter retreats from December to February/March. During this period, only long-term volunteers supporting the monasteries may stay; casual visitors are not accommodated. Outside these months, the monasteries welcome visitors for stays and practice.
Monasteries begin accepting visitors as their retreat period ends (timing varies by monastery). Interested visitors can check their websites for registration details.
As these are Buddhist monastery stays, visitors must observe 8 precepts and follow the monastery schedule, which includes morning chanting assigned chores, and meal preparation.
Cittaviveka Buddhist Monastery, Petersfield
Cittaviveka, also known as the Chithurst Buddhist Monastery, was founded by Luang Por Sumedho in the UK under the guidance of Ajahn Chah. It holds special historical significance as the first branch monastery of the Wat Pah Pong lineage outside Thailand.
The monastery’s name, “Cittaviveka,” means “Discerning Mind” – a concept that became central to my practice during this visit. For those interested in the monastery’s founding history, George Sharp, a major supporter of Dhamma propagation in the UK, documented it in his book “The Chithurst Story, Before & After.” Additional historical context can be found in the documentary “The Buddha Comes to Sussex.”
On arrival
The monastery sits amid vast open fields. The journey there was peaceful, with expansive fields beneath blue skies that helped calm my pre-trip excitement and anticipation.
At the entrance stands a white stupa and main shrine, showcasing a unique blend of English and Thai architectural styles. The serene, quiet environment quickly helped settle my wandering mind.
Ajahn Karuniko welcomed me during afternoon tea time when guests gathered in the reception room. These sessions often include Dhamma discussions and Q&A with the Ajahn. The calm atmosphere and natural interactions between monks and laypeople create a precious sense of harmony.
Daily schedule and practice
The day begins with morning chanting and meditation at 5 am, followed by chores from 6:15 am until breakfast at 7 am. After breakfast, we continue chores and prepare for the 10:30 am meal offering. Once post-meal cleaning is complete, time is allocated for personal activities – rest, meditation, study, or contemplation.
Tea time occurs at 5 pm, featuring Dhamma discussions with Ajahn Karuniko. Evening chanting and meditation begin at 7:30 pm, with opportunities to continue meditation afterwards in the main shrine hall. The library remains accessible for study.
The monastery’s quiet atmosphere promotes mindful introspection throughout the day. This conducive environment facilitates mental calmness and wisdom development through sutta study, encouraging Ehipassiko (investigation).
Long-term volunteers who support the Sangha during the Winter retreat offer valuable insights into monastery life and can introduce you to fellow practitioners. They’re also knowledgeable about the best spots for meditation and walking meditation paths.
Amaravati Buddhist Monastery, Hemel Hempstead
Amaravati Buddhist Monastery, founded by Luang Por Sumedho after Cittaviveka, is where he currently resides and offers Dhamma talks on moon days. Like Cittaviveka, its location amid open fields creates a naturally relaxing environment.
On arrival
Amaravati features numerous container-style buildings serving as accommodation, libraries, offices, and reception rooms. The iconic main shrine with its distinctive tower stands as a centrepiece, contributing to the peaceful atmosphere.
I met the Sangha member responsible for lay residents at the Sala hall. The long-term lay residents have formed a welcoming community. After the orientation briefing, they perform a traditional ritual: one person says “Anumondana” in Anjali (hands pressed together), while others respond with “Sadhu” three times to conclude the session.
Daily Schedule & Practice
On the first day, I attended Luang Por Sumedho’s Dhamma talk at 3 pm. Personal practice time followed until evening chanting. Being Uposatha day (Moon Day), the evening chanting and meditation extended until midnight, offering a valuable opportunity to practice alongside Sangha members.
The daily schedule mirrors Cittaviveka’s routine. The second day featured a birthday celebration by a Thai lay devotee, who offered food to the Sangha. We joined the meal and participated in a Dhamma discussion with Ajahn Amaro (Amaravati’s Abbot), concluding with blessing chants.
Notable Moments
Throughout Amaravati, portraits of Luang Por Sumedho chronicle his journey from youth to elderhood, offering a powerful visual reflection on aging. These images invite contemplation of the five frequent recollections: “I am of the nature to age; I have not gone beyond aging.”
Seeing Luang Por in person during the Dhamma talk, supported by his attendant (Kappiya) while walking, reinforced this truth – all bodies are subject to aging, regardless of current vitality. Through his example, Luang Por demonstrates how one can cultivate a peaceful mind despite the natural aging process.
Anukampa Grove Bhikkhuni Monastery, Oxford
Anukampa Grove Bhikkhuni Monastery, founded by Venerable Canda with Ajahn Brahm as spiritual advisor, is located in rural Oxfordshire.
On arrival
During my visit, the charity had just acquired the property, which was still a residential house awaiting renovation to become a proper monastery. Despite this transitional state, the space included essential features: a Buddha statue in the main common area, a meditation room, and a meal area. The facility was adequately equipped to support Buddhist practice.
Daily Schedule & Practice
The daily schedule follows the monastic pattern: morning chanting and meditation, chores, meal preparation and offerings, followed by personal practice time until evening chanting and meditation. The day concludes with a Dhamma talk after evening meditation.
The rural setting provides excellent walking meditation paths. Encounters with local residents during walks offer valuable lessons – practice isn’t just about solitude, but also about cultivating kindness in community interactions.
Notable Moments
The journey of establishing Anukampa Grove highlights the challenges of founding a monastery—from construction logistics to community relations—all while upholding Buddhist precepts. These difficulties are amplified in Western countries, where Buddhism is not the predominant religion and differs culturally from Asia. The project’s determination to overcome these challenges is truly admirable.
This journey deepened my faith in the Triple Gems through encounters with fellow practitioners abroad. The immersive experience of practising alongside others, in an environment conducive to internal reflection, enhanced my understanding of the Four Noble Truths.
I’m grateful to all the unnamed individuals whose selfless support established these monasteries, making Dhamma accessible in the West. These visits have enriched my practice, and I encourage others to include monastery visits in their travel plans.
Also, check out our first HOL short film, where you can follow You Shan’s journey to Anukampa Grove—just one week after the monastics settled into their new monastery!
Wise Steps:
- Research and learn more about Buddhist monasteries or centres at your travel destination. Perhaps dedicate some time to visiting one.
- Set the intention to uphold certain qualities during this trip. For example, I commit to letting go of ill will throughout my journey.
